Address: 3rd Floor, Unit 3, C Wing Hotel Horizon, Juhu Church Road, Juhu, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400049 India
Time: 12 Noon – 3 PM, 7 PM – 12 Midnight
Meals for two: Rs. 2,500
Cuisines: Thai, Salad
Facilities: Takeaway Only, Table booking recommended, Smoking Area
Juhu is the latest. Bangkok, Hong Kong, China, Tokyo, Manila, London and now, Mumbai. Mango Tree put down its roots in Hotel Horizon in March this year. As a rule, I’m wary of chain restaurants. So, did a thorough and systematic check over two meals spread over three months. Grateful to global gourmand Raman Macker (who’d just been on a Michelin marathon in Spain with me) for helping me check it out. Along with Akash Sharma, film, TV producer and entrepreneur (who enjoys yoga and healthy eating) we had a superfun lunch feasting on the most expensive of dishes (thanks Mr Macker for footing the bill of Rs. 13,000; we had no alcohol). I went back for dinner and we ate our way through the menu.
Mango Tree, Juhu, Mumbai: Decor
Zoom up Juhu’s Hotel Horizon; go past Indigo and into Mango Tree’s bar, lounge and dining space, which sprawls in three different directions. The 120-seater was packed on both our visits.
Mango Tree, Juhu, Mumbai: Food
It’s the masterly handling of the spectrum of flavors that we approved of. From the delicately steamed seabass sparkled with lime and chilli, to the slow-cooked, fall off the bone, lamb in the rich and velvety Massaman Curry. Sweet and spicy notes did a deft seesaw in the refreshing Pomelo Salad crunchy with peanuts and toasted coconut. Radish Cake combined a crunch and softness and a zing from the Pad Thai sauce. Garlicky blasts in the yellow bean sauce bathed morning glory delighted. Their signature (and most expensive dish) whole, large, freshest of Lobster, combined sweetness with a spicy heat accompanied by Phad Thai noodles, tofu and sweet radish. Mango with moist, flavorful sticky rice made for a sweet finale.
Mango Tree, Juhu, Mumbai: Minus Points
Too much attention lavished on some dish presentations (studded with edible flowers), and not enough on the texture or punch in the watery, thin Thai Red Curry. Indian Kolkata paan leaves in the Miang Sam (Thai betel leaf parcels) disappointed. We were informed later that the consignment from Thailand had not been delivered. And so, even the lack of jackfruit led to the Tub Tim Krob dessert being unavailable. Overcooked Prawn Satay. Oversweet Mango Cheesecake.
Mango Tree, Juhu, Mumbai: My Point
What started off as a single Mango Tree in 1994 (by chef-owner Pitaya Phanphensophon) in Bangkok, now has nine flagships spanning seven countries. Thankfully, not only did the entrepreneur dynamo Rana Singh brought Mango Tree to Juhu a few months ago, but even ensured that it’s standards are maintained. High standards are unfortunately matched by high pricing of some of the dishes. However, Mango Tree definitely held our attention. And affection. We will return!