Phone: +91 8928936041, +91 8928936042
Address: Mathuradas Mill Compound, N.M. Joshi Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
Time: 12:30 PM – 1:30 AM
Meals for two: Rs. 2,000
Cuisines: Asian, Chinese, Burmese, Thai
Facilities: Full Bar Available, Live Sports Screening, Valet Parking Available, Indoor Seating, Wifi, Nightlife, Table booking recommended, Serves Jain Food
One more new restaurant opens in the Lower Parel area. It announced its arrival with hype and hoopla as the culinary hot-spot, serving “modern Asian with an Indian twist”. It’s ‘Lilt Modern Asian’ and there is an obvious investment of money, time and dreams. We popped in unannounced into a more or less empty restaurant. Does Lilt have a memorable harmony? Or does it strike discordant notes?
Lilt, Lower Parel, Mumbai: Decor
No, I’m not superstitious and neither do I believe in jinxes, but this Mathuradas Mills location has seen many a restaurant open and shut with rapidity. We were happily surprised by the well air conditioned, high ceilinged large 7500 sq ft space. It is clad in grey and wood, with metal accents on the bare walls. Black granite tables and two large TV screens complete the decor. Loud music fill the air.
Lilt, Lower Parel, Mumbai: Food
One look at the menu and our mind boggles. Pizza Kung Pao? Galoti with Malay Cinnamon Yellow Curry Paste Yangrouving? Mixed marriages in each dish. Did they work? There’s obviously talent in the kitchen because even though the Malay Curry Paste on the Awadhi Galoti strikes a strange note, the Galoti Kabab itself is melt in the mouth soft. Each dish is uniquely presented too. The Keralite chicken has the right touch of pepper and is succulent as well, then why pile on the Kung Pao and the Soya Oyster? The Lamb Shank is a marvel of meat but has a mix of discordant Thai spices. Perfectly textured seekh with pine nuts is for some inexplicable reason infused with Indonesian Kae Ha. Burmese Khao Suey served in its pure form is delicious though it could do with more quantity of condiments. Avoidable outsourced desserts, be it the over sweet Tiramisu or Coconut Kale cake.
Lilt, Lower Parel, Mumbai: My Point
While the Galoti Kabab is melt in the mouth soft, it rings a false note when Malay Curry Paste infuses it. This happens again and again to the well presented food. But is it Asian food with an Indian twist? Or Indian food with a global twist? Does fusion lead to confusion? Sadly, it seems to. Lilt’s high ceilinged, wood clad space is high-energy for sure. And the service under Greg D’Souza is immaculate. If only the food would follow suit.