Syrah, Bhikaji Cama Place, New Delhi Mediterranean Restaurant

Syrah: Hyatt Regency: Review II (21/01/2022)

The real food from the countries of the Middle East

You can easily tell when the management does not interfere too much in the workings of a restaurant, because the menu is allowed to reflect the choices of the chef/s of the outlet rather than every single cliche of that cuisine. In Syrah’s case, it is only the mezze menu that has offerings that are familiar to us. All the main courses are a complete revelation. Also, the menu is organised by the suggestions of first and second course fixed menus: depending on how many dining companions you have, you are free to order an appropriate number of dishes for an interesting mix of the familiar and the exciting. Because cut-copy-paste has long defined Arabic / Middle Eastern / Lebanese menus in our country, you don’t have to try too hard to come up with something different.

Syrah: Hyatt Regency, Bhikaji Cama Place, New Delhi: Food

Muhammara (₹ 850), unlike hunnmus which is made from chickpeas, is made from roasted red peppers and has a natural red hue and an appealing flavour, accentuated with a drop of the intensely flavored pomegranate molasses. Bamia bil laham (₹ 1,275) was bite-sized pieces of boneless lamb cooked optimally, so that each piece had a bite to it, was juicy and was contrasted with a flavorful tomato sauce with sections of okra lurking in its depths. Meat-eating communities often make the meat go further and increase its health benefits by adding vegetables and this was a stunner of a dish. Robian Provencal (₹ 2,150) was mild, slightly tangy and had a pleasantly garlicky buzz to it. As the prawns had their shell on, it was a dish that cried out to be eaten with your fingers —as indeed are all mezze offerings. The majoaa (₹ 1,850) was a complete first for me, and I am somewhat of a veteran around the cuisines of the region. Imagine a burger where the ‘bread’ is made of minced meat flattened to form a firm sheet, and the filling plays a supporting role, consisting of onions, peppers, nuts and cheese. Highly recommended for meat-eaters who consider Middle Eastern food to have little variety. Even the rice that is served with some mains is sprinkled with a hint of cinnamon powder, studded with toasted pine-nuts and scented with paper-thin slices of fried onions.

Plus & Minus:

Excellent, spill-proof packaging and to-the-minute punctuality.